Getting around Croatia

Ferries and catamarans, buses, trains, driving and domestic flights, and which to use when.

Croatia is easy to get around, but distances along the coast are longer than they look on a map, and the islands run on ferry timetables. Here is how each option works.

Ferries and catamarans

Car ferries carry cars and foot passengers to the bigger islands. Most are run by Jadrolinija, the state ferry company. Busy summer routes from Split, such as to Brač and Hvar, can fill up, so arrive well before departure if you are bringing a car, and buy your ticket online where you can.

Catamarans are faster, foot-passenger only, and link the cities with the islands and the islands with each other. Jadrolinija runs many of them, and private companies add more lines in summer. Seats are limited, so book a few days ahead in July and August.

A few things to know:

• Timetables change between the summer and winter seasons, so always check the timetable for your travel dates.
• Ferries leave on time and the gate closes before departure; don’t cut it fine.
• Strong wind can cancel catamarans, especially in winter. Car ferries are much less affected.
• Split is the main hub for central Dalmatia, and Dubrovnik for the south. In Kvarner, ferries leave from Krk, Istria and the mainland coast.

Buses

Buses are the cheapest way to travel between cities and towns, and they go almost everywhere on the mainland. You can buy tickets at the bus station or online. Big bags usually go in the luggage hold for a small extra fee, paid to the driver. Long coastal routes, such as Split to Dubrovnik, take several hours, so plan for a rest stop.

Trains

The rail network is limited. The useful lines run from Zagreb to Rijeka and from Zagreb to Split, through beautiful scenery but more slowly than the bus. There are no trains to Dubrovnik, Istria’s west coast or the islands.

Driving

A car is the best way to see the countryside, the hill towns of Istria, the national parks and the quieter parts of the islands. The motorways are excellent and tolled; the A1 runs from Zagreb down the coast past Zadar and Split. The coastal road is slow and winding but spectacular.

• In the old towns you will need to park outside and walk; parking in summer is scarce and often expensive.
• Driving to Dubrovnik, the Pelješac Bridge lets you stay in Croatia instead of crossing the short stretch of Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum.
• If you rent a car, check whether you may take it on ferries and across borders, and whether that costs extra.
• Croatia’s drink-drive rules are strict and enforced. Don’t drink and drive.

Flying

Croatia’s main airports are Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik, with smaller ones at Zadar, Pula and Rijeka (on the island of Krk), plus seasonal flights to Brač and Osijek. Domestic flights between Zagreb and the coast save time if you are short of it.

In the cities

Old towns are best on foot. Zagreb has trams and Split, Rijeka and Dubrovnik have city buses. Taxis and ride-hailing apps work in the bigger cities and are handy for airport transfers.